W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor Replaces WPW10350564

How do I know if the run capacitor has failed and not the compressor?

This is the key question — because a failed $15–30 capacitor produces nearly identical symptoms to a failed $300+ compressor. Signs pointing to the capacitor: the compressor hums or clicks but won't start; the compressor tries to start, runs briefly, then shuts off (short cycling); or the refrigerator gradually stopped cooling with humming from the rear. To test: unplug the refrigerator, discharge the capacitor, disconnect it, and measure it with a multimeter that has a capacitance setting — a healthy capacitor reads close to 12 µF (within ±5%). A reading far off, zero, or infinite confirms the capacitor has failed. Visual signs like bulging, leaking, or burn marks also confirm failure. Given the low cost, replacing the capacitor (and start relay) first is the standard diagnostic approach before condemning the compressor.

Should I replace the start relay at the same time?

Yes, it's strongly recommended. The run capacitor and the compressor start relay/start device work together in the compressor's starting circuit — the relay switches power to the start winding while the capacitor provides the phase-shifted boost. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events (voltage spikes, overheating, repeated failed start attempts). Both components are inexpensive, mounted in the same location on or near the compressor, and accessible in the same repair session. A quick relay check: with the refrigerator unplugged, remove the relay and shake it — if it rattles, the internal components have failed and it needs replacement.

Why does the capacitor need to be discharged before handling?

Capacitors store electrical energy — that's their job. Even after the refrigerator is unplugged, the capacitor can hold a charge capable of delivering a painful (and potentially dangerous) shock when you touch both terminals. Before handling, always discharge the capacitor by shorting both terminals together with the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver — touch the metal blade across both terminals at once and hold for a second or two. You may see a small spark as the charge dissipates; that's normal. After discharging, the capacitor is safe to handle. This takes five seconds and eliminates the shock risk entirely.

What's the difference between a run capacitor and a start capacitor?

Both assist the compressor motor but in different phases of operation. A start capacitor delivers a large, brief boost only during the initial moment of motor startup, then is switched out of the circuit. A run capacitor — like the W10350564 — stays in the circuit continuously while the motor runs, providing an ongoing phase shift that improves the motor's running efficiency and torque. Household refrigerators on the Whirlpool platform typically use a run capacitor working alongside the start relay/start device. Match the replacement to your original: the W10350564 is a 12 µF, 180VAC run capacitor, and the capacitance rating must match for correct compressor operation.

Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?

This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (12 µF ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz), terminal configuration, and compressor-support function of the original WPW10350564/W10350564 run capacitor used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers.